what lens is best for my slt a-77

[wilkilad]

i have a sony alpha a-77 i have the startard lens for the camera but in june i am going to see the british super bikes at would like to get some fantastic close up shots ive been looking through alot and seemily the 400mm lens is the best for its price but would like a little more help if thats possible never done anything like this so yeah haha kind regards liam

[DistantMelody]

Hello Mark

I keep replying to this post but my replies are being removed. Why?

[DistantMelody]

What I keep trying to say, and my replies keep being removed, is that:

- I don't understand the rail yet. Is it also for added stability?

- I have borrowed a Sigma APO 70-300mm F4-5.6 DG MACRO lens to try. The macro cancells itself out because it can only be used from 1m+ away from the subject. It is good for far away photography though

- Out of the 3 macro lenses 2 are full frame. Does that mean they can't be used with my camera?

- Do you have any of the 3 Sony macro lenses?

[Bieomax]

Erm rail wise, it adds an extra dimension to your tripod, so instead of just being able to move your camera either in a rotating/panning or pitching/up or down, it'll allow you to move slightly backwards and forwards in the direction you camera is pointing.

Most zooms which have a macro feature means that it'll allow you to focus a little closer, as far as I know most of these Will only magnify down to a 1:2 ratio (1mm on the sensor to 2mm of real life) were as full macro lenses will give you 1:1 and when you are at 1:1 you are generally at the closest / minimum focus range of the lens as if you focus further away you lose magnification thus why I have the rail to be able to move the focus point without touching the lens to focus.

Full frame lenses will work fine, your camera is aps-c which is a little smaller sensor then full frame. A full frame sensor is the same size as a 35mm film negative, so it means the lens is designed to cover that area, where as a aps-c lens will cover your camera ok but a full frame will likely have heavy vignetting. have a Google of dslr sensor sizes as it explain it a little better then I can at the moment as I'm on my phone.

I have the minolta version of the 100mm 2.8 which when sony bought out minolta's camera section they still make as the Sony 100mm 2.8 it's a very nice lens.

[Bieomax]

It's probably down to linking to none sony products if I had to guess

[DistantMelody]

Thank you Mark

The rail definitely sounds like something good for macro photography. Macro photography has interesting possibilities and sounds interesting to me.

I am looking at better extension tubes than the ones I have, so that they have connections to go from the lens to the camera. I like that they can change the magnification but a lense is quite fixed. I don't know though, for sure, before trying them. I am looking at Mcoplus extension tubes that say they have AF. I haven't found any reviews yet for the ones that are for Sony cameras, only Canon. Maybe they are not the best.

Do you prefer to use tubes or your Minolta macro lens?

[Bieomax]

i think you'll need to make sure they have the mechanical aperture control connection, the lens electrical contacts i'd not be so bothered about as with macro you'd be better off with manual focussing rather then AF.

when i reversed the lens to do the electricity shot i had abit of rolled up paper wedged into the reversed lens's aperture level to open it up, not perfect but it did the job.

I dont have a preference really its all horses for courses, proper macro prime lenses are Very sharp, but then if you want to get even closer you then look at the extension tubes/bellows

[DistantMelody]

Hello Mark

I don't know how to operate the apeture manually. Is it inside the lens? How did you get there?

Which extension tubes are the best in your opinion (not considering price)?

[Bieomax]

If you have a lens in your hand and look at the bayonet, turn it so the electrical connections are at the top, on the left side just inside the bayonet area between it and the rear lens element there is a little Lever, with a biro or something similar you can move the lever up which moves the aperture mechanism, it should spring back down if the mechanism is in good condition ( this is something you should check if your buying a second hand lens, as some times older lenses get sticky apertures from internal grease getting old and splitting. So if you move the lever up and its doesn't snap back down at speed it'll have a sticky mechanism, which you want to be wiry of as it effects your picture exposure.

Tube wise I couldn't say as I've an old m42 bellows is use for extention which I use old film lenses with (which have a ring on the lens body to change the aperture manually)

I would post a question on dyxum.com for that as some of the macro guru's will be able to advise better.

[marashfo]

In terms of Macro tubes I went for the Kenko brand after doings hours of research. They carry electrical connections for auto focus and aperture which was important for me. (Expect to pay between £80 - £100 for a set of three.)

One important consideration when using Macro tubes is that you lose infinity focus. So lets say you're out in the garden taking photo's of flowers with a standard 50mm lens with a Macro tube added. Yes you can get up really close to the flower (8") and take a Macro shot, but lets say you want to take general shot of the garden you can't, as the camera simply won't be able to focus that far.

If you are looking at macro lenses, I would defintely consider the Sony 30mm Macro. It was my first ever Macro lens and it is fantastic for the money. What I really like about it is the fact it's easy to use and is very forgiving if you're just starting out.

[DistantMelody]

Thank you Mark